🌈🌻✌💗⚡"A life lived from tomorrow never comes, a life lived for yesterday never changes, but a life lived for today is full of wonder, mystery and the choice to live happily ever after moment by moment" - Mastin Kipp ⚡💗✌🌻🌈Peace, Love and Power
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
How to: flashing doors, and vents in aluminum siding
This type of flashing is totally new to me. As I understand it the basic idea is the design the exterior siding and attach it in such a way that water would have to fight gravity to penetrate the wall/roof, and that the flashing channels water away from doors and windows, which are holes in your walls. So here are some pictures of my attempts to install flashing around the doors and vents for the solar batteries.
Battery compartment vents ready for flashing.
I cut on side of a piece of aluminum angle and folded it into the opening in the foam, between the foam and the siding.
Next I took a piece of Z-channel aluminum
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and fitted it under the over-lapping sheet of siding. I cut notches in the siding so the z channel would extend beyond the edges of the vent opening.
Next I cut three more pieces of angle and fitted them into the openings, covering the layers of siding and interior angle.
And then I screwed it all into place! The rubber mallet has been a very important tool, and also the tin snips.
Here a piece of aluminum angle has been sandwiched between the insulation board and the siding, with the door frame on the back of the exposed angle. The notched the angle so that it bent over the top of the door frame, and a third piece runs across the top of the door which the siding covers.
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The ISO board is attached using double sided fiberglass tape and either liquid nails or caulk (see previous post), and the aluminum siding and flashing it attached using stainless steel screws and rubber backed washers into the steel framing under neither. All of the holes for the screws are pre-drilled, and the screws hand tightened as stainless steel is rather soft and the power tools strip the heads. A dab of caulk has been applied to the backs of all the screws to prevent them from backing out.
Here is a shot of the batteries in situ under the floor on their supports. They are resting on steel covered by three layers of cork padding.
How to attaching ISO board to steel framing
I have been searching ye old internet for helpful photos and information about this phase of construction, and I found little aside from product ads. Maybe that's just how Google has tailored by internet searches based on algorithmically interpreted preferences: but I am going to put up some post of what I was looking for and didn't quite find:
How to attach ISO board to structural steel framing.
ISO board is a foam insulating board with a layer of fiber glass on both sides. I chose it because it offers more structural integrity than a traditional foam insulating board, it will hold up after being shot through with multiple screws a bit better than straight foam and it has a slightly higher R-value. I bought these sheets from a surplus building supply yard. This board will act as a structural sheeting for the exterior of the trailer, it will isolate the steel from the aluminum siding to prevent galvanic corrosion and will also cover the raised hexagonal heads of the screws used to join the framing material together.
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Here is the portion of wall I am ready to cover with insulating board
The next step is to draw and cut the ISO board to cover the intended area. I used a Sharpie and a box cutting utility knife.
Okay, simple enough. Next I used a exterior double sided fiberglass carpet tape made by a company called Shurtape. I bought it @ Lowe's.
I put a few strips of the tape along the surfaces of the wall to hold the board in place while I get the siding up. It is good strong tape and has held up full 9' X 4' board for more than a week.
I put the boards up into place, careful not to let it touch the tape until I was sure I had it in the right position, and then a hammered it into place with my rubber mallet, pictured on the door sill.
....and then I ran a line of Liquid nails along the seams where one board meets another! Caulk works too. I have been using both.
How to attach ISO board to structural steel framing.
ISO board is a foam insulating board with a layer of fiber glass on both sides. I chose it because it offers more structural integrity than a traditional foam insulating board, it will hold up after being shot through with multiple screws a bit better than straight foam and it has a slightly higher R-value. I bought these sheets from a surplus building supply yard. This board will act as a structural sheeting for the exterior of the trailer, it will isolate the steel from the aluminum siding to prevent galvanic corrosion and will also cover the raised hexagonal heads of the screws used to join the framing material together.
Friday, June 10, 2011
Starting on the exterior aluminum siding
June 15th..
It's a few days after the original post, and here are some more in progress pictures:
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